19-20 September – Another Stop on the Quest for NZ’s Best Fish ‘n Chips
I know it’s been a long time since I’ve blogged – I think I’ve been suffering from blogger’s guilt! The last post described Brandon’s birthday climbing fiasco, and since, we’ve survived our first grueling Auckland winter, with temperatures dipping as low as 3 degrees overnight. There were even a few days when I couldn’t wear flip-flops for the freezing cold! But, in all seriousness, we did have quite a shock. The outdoor weather was bearable, considering we left Canada during a stretch of minus thirty. It was the indoor weather that got to us.
Apparently, only very new NZ homes have sufficient insulation or heating. Everywhere else, people are bundled up inside and out: thermals, merino wool socks, sweaters and underwear, beanies (toques). It was not uncommon for me to pass another classroom and see the teacher wearing a parka as they wrote on the whiteboard.
We had a hard time adjusting to the constant chill. Brandon installed a type of plastic wrap around the window frames to stop the cold draughts, I tried to bake as often as possible. We purchased an electric mattress cover and two electric room heaters. And we paid the price - $360 in electric charges for the month of July. That’s just under ten times the amount we paid during the summer!
I admit, we spent more time inside than we should have, and we still battled the urge to go into “hibernation mode” and eat all the soft, warm foods we could get our hands on. We still made a few trips out to our favorite beaches, but mostly we stayed in Auckland.
But, now that it’s nearly Spring, we’re back in exploration mode!
Last weekend we were treated to a trip to Omaha Beach—not the famous WWII beach—a short hour or so north of Auckland. Wendy and Dave Allan (Wendy works at my school) took us out to her sister’s bach. The weather wasn’t the greatest, but Brandon and I still got a chance to walk along the deserted east-coast beach. Mostly, we enjoyed good games, interesting conversation, and excellent food.
On the Saturday, Wendy and Dave drove us out to Tawharanui Reserve where we got to see baby lambs, Pukeko chicks, and ducklings. Later that evening, we ate a delicious meal of Moroccan Lamb and watched a rugby game before playing games late into the night. By “late into the night” I mean past our usual 9:30 bedtime.
Sunday brought new adventures. We packed up and waved goodbye to Omaha Beach and drove an hour west to the Waitakeres where we visited an alpaca farm. The owner treated us to a lecture on raising alpaca and the alpaca wool trade in NZ. He demonstrated the process of “felting” and answered any and all questions we had—and didn’t know we had—about his alpacas. He was especially proud of the fact that a few of his male alpacas were being sold to Mr. Benz of Germany. Mr. Mercedes Benz.
Next, we headed to a macadamia nut farm where I feasted on a macadamia nut milkshake – divine! Brandon had a latté – just a latté. (We’ll definitely be going back!)
Finally, we concluded the day with a picnic at Shelly Beach. It’s much easier to absorb a busy and stimulating weekend when you’re hypnotized by the soothing ebb and flow of an incoming tide.
This weekend proved more of a trek. Our main destination was Monganui and the Monganui Fish Shop. It’s said to be the best fish ‘n chips in New Zealand. So, Saturday morning we headed 4 hours north to Taupo Bay, which was where I’d booked us a small cabin at a Holiday Park. We were the only ones there, so we enjoyed the privacy and all the space. The cabin was about 200m from the bay, which is supposed to be the safest beach in NZ. Sadly, the weather didn’t cooperate—I have to remind myself it’s Winter—but we still enjoyed an hour or so on the beach blanket with a good book.
We saw some interesting native birds: the small New Zealand kingfisher, the Tui, and the Pukeko. We also saw a parrot! And Brandon took innumerable photos of flowers—he’s obsessed!
In the late afternoon we drove about 20 minutes to Monganui for our fish and chips. The little harbour town was adorable, complete with restored historical sea-front buildings and a small commercial wharf where the locals were perched with their rods and bait, reeling in their dinner.
The Monganui Fish Shop was busy, at least two tour busses stopped while we were there. We ordered our fish fresh and paid extra for a tin of tomato sauce and a container of tartar sauce. However, our eyes were larger than our stomachs, and the 4 pieces of fish, large order of chips, 2 scallops and 2 oysters were far too much and nearly half of it ended up in the bin. And the verdict? The fish was delicious – very fresh and perfectly cooked. But, the fries were nothing special. So, in my mind/stomach, the fish and chips in Whangarei are still the best. But, we had to give it a go.
Upon returning to our cabin, we whiled away the hours with a good book, a hot drink, and a pack of TimTams…
This morning we got up early and headed west across the island, following the main highway, to Kaitaia where we veered toward Ahipara, the “Gateway to 90-Mile Beach.” We took a few quick photos then headed south. The highway on the West Coast is nothing more than a paved trail winding through the country-side with occasional views of the sea and giant sand dunes. As I traced our travels on the map, we seemed to be moving quite slowly. It was too late when I realized we would have to take a car ferry from Motukaraka to Rawene. Our next leg was through the Waipoua Forest, home of Tane Mahuta, the largest living Kauri tree in NZ. Standing 50m tall, and with a circumference of 14m, Tane Mahuta is the “Lord of the Forest” and plays a substantial role in Maori lore.
It seemed to take forever to drive out of the forest, and it felt like we were in the misty jungle of Colombia or some other South American country. The road was terribly winding, and I’m still sore from the side-to-side motion.
From there, we followed the coast through Dargaville to Matakohe and the Kauri Museum. The Kauri tree is a native NZ tree that is extremely valuable. It grows tall and straight, without knots and only grows branches at the very top of the tree. Single slabs of Kauri have been made into giant boardroom tables and, in the 1800’s and early 1900’s, was used to build all kinds of things from pianos to bowls. The sap, or gum, of the Kauri tree used to have many uses (floor lacquer, waterproofing, etc.) but today it is mostly used to make jewelry as it can be polished and looks a bit like amber. Some Kauri trees fell tens of thousands of years ago and were preserved in swamps. When these Kauri are discovered and salvaged, the wood is still of excellent quality.
The museum featured a room full of Kauri gum collections and carvings, many photos of gum-diggers and bushmen, different period displays, and numerous samples of Kauri planks and Kauri products. For a museum all about a tree, we really enjoyed ourselves and learned a lot.
After leaving Matakohe, we headed home, and this part of the drive was very enjoyable. The clouds had dispersed and the early evening sun turned the green hills golden and lit up the mist in the faraway mountain ranges.
This time of year is very beautiful. Many trees that will be full of leaves in a month or two, are covered with blossoms. The wisteria is prolific, cherry trees are covered in pink flowers, magnolia petals are just starting to fall, daffodils and lilies grow wild in the ditches, another tree has sprouted its red hair-brush-like flowers, while another has no leaves, only red flowers scattered throughout the brown branches (I couldn’t find the name).
It’s truly magical at this time of year: lambs chase each other across the paddock and calves scamper around, not a care in the world. Horses share their paddock with chickens and sheep and cows. Even wild peacocks, pheasants and turkeys can be seen flying (or waddling) from one pasture to another. The only sad sight is a squashed possum every few kilometers on the highway. And even that isn’t too sad, since the possum eat the eggs of all the other fowl I mentioned. But they are cute and furry.
Anyway, we’re home now and it’s time for bed. Yes, it’s 9:30.
I hope you all forgive me for my writing hiatus, and haven’t forgotten about us already.
With love…